A Long, Long Walk in Paris - September 23, 2025

The highlight of our day

After a good breakfast at our hotel, we did not need to visit a bakery right away but we had been told that the place just south of us was very, very good, so we stopped in. Utopie is ranked # 12 among the over 500 bakeries in Paris. Of course, we picked up a couple of sweets for later.

Pastries at Utopie

Everything looks very good, n'est-ce pas?

Thus armed, we headed west in search of the triumphal arch we could not find the day before. As we walked, it began to rain lightly. No matter, we were prepared for wet weather. As it worked out, la Porte Saint-Denis was a mere two blocks beyond la Porte Saint-Martin which we had visited yesterday.. How had I missed it??

La Porte Saint-Denis

Obelisk on the wall face

Originally a passageway through the Wall of Charles V erected in the 14th century, this grand archway was rebuilt over three centuries later on the command of Louis XIV to commemorate French victories in the Meuse and Rhine regions during the Franco-Prussian War. 

A trio of pigeons huddle on the side of the arch to escape the rain.

La Porte Saint-Denis from another angle

The decorations on this, the oldest of four triumphal arches in Paris, depict trophies of arms on obelisks on each side, while a frieze above the arch contains a sculptural group of "The Passage of the Rhine". At the very top, the Sun King is glorified in these words: LUDOVICO MAGNO, Louis the Great. 

I stand in front of the colonnaded entrance to Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nouvelle.

The choir and the nave

We continued walking west. Below some steps on our left, we spied la Paroisse de Notre-Dame de Bonne-Nouvelle, so we decided to look inside. That way, we could get out of the rain while enjoying what this neo-classical church had to offer. Erected in 1830, it is the third church of this name to sit on this spot. Like many others, this church did not survive the Reign of Terror after the French Revolution in 1789.

Columns and pulpit

Lovely side chapel

It was a worthwhile stop. An altar stands under a dome in the nave, while a second one sits in the middle of the church on a blue platform. Doric columns are a common feature both inside and outside the building. There are also beautiful side chapels, such as the one in the photo above. The one below contains a painting by Florentine artist, Ludovico Cardi which predates the 19th century erection of the current church.

I admire the art in a side chapel.

The distinctive baptismal font

The most remarkable feature here is its unusual baptismal font. Octagonal in shape, it lies within the floor of the building, and is designed for full-immersion baptisms. Surrounding the cruciform font are mosaics representing the four evangelists: a lion for Saint Mark, a bull for Saint Luke, an eagle for Saint John, and a man with wings for Saint Matthew. 

Le Grand Rex

BNP Paribas Clock Tower

Back outside, we returned to the walkway we had been following all morning and continued our journey west. A very large art deco theatre, Le Grand Rex, marked a change in the nature of this main street. What had been a modest thoroughfare was now much grander. In the distance, Bob spotted the graceful clock tower of the BNP Paribas Headquarters.

Beautiful architecture

Looking up at the features of the same Second Empire building

Many of the apartments in this area were erected during the Second Empire in the latter half of the 19th century. The one above is a perfect example of what is known as the Haussmannian style of architecture, with a stone façade, balconies, mansard roof, and a green dome. 

A quiet moment in the Passage des Panoramas

Looking down one of the "side streets"

Shortly thereafter, we arrived at le Passage des Panoramas, an indoor mall which had been recommended to us at our hotel. Built in 1799, it is the first covered passageway in Paris. Today, it contains a variety of shops, cafés and restaurants on each side of a narrow walkway covered by a glass roof. There is also a "side street" with more of the same.

Shoppers in the Passage des Panoramas

Interesting window display

We did a fair bit of window shopping here, as the shops were intriguing. This is a place for collectors, whether one's interest is coins, stamps, postcards, or art. In one display was the winged dog above, posing in front of awards for an Italian restaurant. Note the rich wood panelling in the background. This is a beautiful place. 

Too early for lunch, this will fill up in about an hour.

Exploring le Passage de Jouffroy

We walked the length of the arcade, then retraced our steps. We had noticed a second passageway across the road, so we decided to explore it too. Le Passage Jouffroy is also charming, a little newer than its counterpart, having been constructed in 1836. One of the most delightful shops here is a toy store, Boite à Joujoux. 

Toy van in Boite à Joujoux

I am in this photo twice.

There were other attractive shops here too, as well as a wax museum, the famous Musée Grévin. (Had we known its reputation, we might have paid admission and seen the figures inside.) Beyond le Passage de Jouffroy is yet another arcade, le Passage Verdeau, but we decided to skip it, as it would have taken us farther off our planned route. It is the last of the three "passages" that attract visitors to this area.

La Bourse

A Paris flatiron building

Instead, we returned to the main street, and then turned south onto Rue Vivienne. We were on the lookout for yet another arcade, the most famous of the lot. As we walked, we photographed some of the beautiful architecture in the city. One of my subjects was "la Bourse', the stock market building, where I had to zoom in to avoid the scaffolding that marred its appearance. 

Corner clock

We enter la Galerie Vivienne from the west.

A little further along, we spotted la Bibliotheque Nationale de France, with its ornate corner clock and classical reliefs. Soon afterwards, we arrived at la Galerie Vivienne, the last of the covered walkways we would visit this day. It is a beautiful space.

Posh shop and floor

The second corridor

This arcade is different from the others we saw earlier. For one thing, it belongs to a private condominium, and is closed to the public outside of shop hours. Also, it is designed in an "L" shape, with a glass dome in the centre. The mosaic floor, as you can see, is spectacular.

2008 visit

2025 visit

We had visited la Galerie Vivienne many years before, in 2008. On that day, we had discovered it by chance, and when we entered it, we found a fashion show taking place, with the models using its corridor as a runway. I have included a photo of that earlier visit above, as well as the one taken this year. 

Bob's photo of Place des Victoires

I got caught shooting a pic. 

We were now approaching the centre of Paris. Place des Victoires is one of the five royal squares in the city, notable for the equestrian statue of Louis XIV in a central island. This is not the original statue, as it did not survive the revolution. The current one was erected during the Bourbon Restoration in 1828. Typical of Bob is the pic of me taking a photo on my phone. 

The first chapel we saw

Another side chapel

We soon arrived at l'Église Saint-Eustache which is considered one of the finest churches in the city, second only to Notre-Dame. It truly is stunning. We both took many photos here. Those above are of side chapels. Look closely at each of them. There is so much to take in, from the marble sculptures, to the fine art above or below them, to the ornate decor on the columns and walls of these alcoves, to the wrought iron work separating them from the nave. 

I stand next to a magnificent column.

A wide angle photo of the nave

It took a century (1532-1633) to build Saint-Eustache. It is soaring building with a flamboyant Gothic exterior, while on the inside there are Renaissance and classical features. In the first photo above, the scale of the church can be measured as I stand against one of the nave's many columns.

The Chapel of the Virgin

Side view

The Chapel of the Virgin in the east end of the building is stunning. Restored in the early 19th century, its central sculpture of Mary was fashioned by Neo-Classical sculptor, Jean-Baptiste Pigalle. Artist Thomas Couture complemented this with three large paintings which focus on the Virgin as well, glorifying her as "Adored by Angels", "a Star Guiding the Sailors", and "Giving Consolation to the Afflicted". 

Window and a projected crucifix

Chapel of Louis IX

Also notable here are the stained-glass windows. Most of these are relatively recent, dating from the 19th Century. The first one above is in the chapel of the pork butchers, donated by the Society of French Charcuterie. The other one, entitled the Education of Louis IX, is the highlight of the chapel dedicated to the king of that name. 

1910 Pulpit

The 1720 Banc-oeuvre

In a church with so much stone, the wooden features stand out for their warmth and beauty. The pulpit, carved in 1910, has a graceful curving stair behind an intricately carved wrought-iron barrier. Another remarkable wooden feature is the Banc-oeuvre, dating from 1720. This was a seating area for the lay committee that oversaw the church's finances. At the base is a row of seats (which are not visible in the photo above) while the statue at the pinnacle is a representation of "The Triumph of Saint Agnes".

Beautiful colours

Chapel of wonders

In parts of the church, colourful spaces provide relief from the greyness of the stone columns. These appear to be recently restored chapels, since the hues are quite vivid. In the above photo, there is a lot to look at: statues of saints above a bas relief of the martyrdom of Sainte-Cécile; a fresco of a saintly figure; and, in a corner, a seated knightly ghost in very unusual armour. Clearly this fellow is a very recent addition.

The Les Halles market moves away from the area.

Church Keeper

Other very modern elements in L'Église Saint-Eustache caught my eye. In 1969, the relief sculpture of merchants moving produce from the area was added to mark the relocation of the city's principal market from Les Halles to another part of the city. We can see the church in the background. A mysterious figure was seated against a column. Like the armoured puppet in a chapel, it is part of a temporary art installation by Liselor Perez. The artist herself suggests that this fellow, "Church Keeper", represents an existential tension, "the fragile body in search of higher purpose, facing the timeless and immutable architecture".

The Rose Window

The massive organ

"Immutable architecture" indeed! The more we looked, the more we realized how remarkable Saint-Eustache is. Of course, there was a rose window here, in the north transept. But, even more special was the organ, which was refurbished in 1989.  Over the centuries, it has rivalled the one in Notre-Dame de Paris in size. After all, it has nearly 8,000 pipes! While we were inside the church, a fellow was playing this powerful musical instrument, filling the space entirely. Lucky us!

L'Écoute and me

Part of the south façade

We exited the church on the south side, where we immediately spotted another modern sculpture that has become associated with Saint-Eustache. Carved in sandstone, L'Écoute is a large head, reclining over a cupped hand. Created in 1986 by Henri de Miller, it invites reflection and interaction, and in my case, posing. 

Pickleball friends in front of the apse of Saint-Eustache

Art at the entrance to Les Halles

As I was making my way west, I heard someone call my name, so I turned around, and there was Greg, a fellow I know from pickleball, and his wife, Faye. We both knew the other was in Paris but we never imagined this random encounter. Serendipity! And doesn't Saint-Eustache make a great backdrop? After a short visit with them, Bob and I continued into the modern Les Halles a few metres away. What was once a great outdoor fresh food market is now an underground shopping mall. We had a peek inside but did not stay long. 

Fontaine des Innocents

The fountain from another angle

We were on our way to la Place Joachim-du-Bellay, where the oldest monumental fountain is Paris stands. La Fontaine des Innocents, constructed in the style of the French Renaissance, was completed in 1550 to commemorate the royal entry of King Henry II into Paris in 1549. Over the centuries, it has been moved twice, first away from the cemetery where it was originally located against a wall, and second to this square. It has also been modified in several ways. A fourth side and the steps below the fountain were added, for instance. It is a lovely monument; no wonder people like the trio above enjoy just sitting and looking at it. 

La Tour de Saint-Jacques

Blaise Pascal

Five minutes away is another interesting square, named after the tower that stands in its centre, la Tour de Saint-Jacques. It was once part of a medieval church, Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie (Saint James of the Meat Market), which was all but destroyed during the French Revolution, with only the tower remaining. Interestingly, the statue of a secular figure, Blaise Pascal, has been enshrined at the base of the tower. It is believed that this inventor conducted experiments on atmospheric pressure inside this church. 

Our first glimpse of la Fontaine du Palmier

The entire monument

From here, we continued south towards the Seine, stopping at a third square on the way. La Place du Châtelet also houses a monument in its centre. Here stands la Fontaine du Palmier, designed in 1806 to celebrate French victories in battle. At its base sit four allegorical figures representing Prudence, Temperance, Justice, and Strength. Its 18 metre tall column, representative of a palm tree, is topped by a gilded figure of the goddess, Victory. 

La Conciergerie

Sundial 

We were now at the edge of the river, so we crossed Pont au Change towards Ile de la Cité. Here was a view of the Conciergerie, the large Gothic and Neo-gothic building facing us. It was once the site of a royal palace, then a prison, and now a courthouse. Later in the afternoon, we walked beside the southern face of the same structure on which there is a sundial, with a Latin inscription which means: "Time passes, justice remains."

I arrive at Place Dauphine.

Pétanque players

Ile de la Cité is one of two islands in the centre of Paris. It is home to some very famous Paris attractions, but, we first walked towards a lesser known area here. A friend had recommended that we seek out la Place Dauphine, a quiet square which would be better described as a triangle. Built is 1607 by Henry IV in honour of his son, it is a peaceful oasis where local people gather to eat, and, on this day, to play pétanque. 

We were seated in the left corner of the banquette in the back.

Green Pea Soup

Since it was now after 2:00 pm, Bob and I were more than ready to sit down and have a bite to eat. Luckily Le Caveau de Paris was open. This was a delightful place, with seating both outside and in. It was a little too chilly to dine al fresco, so we happily chose a corner table and ordered the soup of the day, green pea. We topped off this light meal with a crème brûlèe. Pourquoi pas?

We arrive at Notre-Dame de Paris.

Part of the left side of the central portal on the west façade.

After this mid-afternoon break, we left Place Dauphine and headed to the main attraction at the other end of Île de la Cité, the recently restored Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. I had managed to reserve a timed entry ticket before we left Canada, so we skipped the queue and walked right into the church. As we did so, I quickly snapped a couple of photos of the statuary in the central portal. Stunning!

The central portal depicts the Last Judgment. 

Baptismal font in foreground of the nave

We had visited Notre-Dame seventeen years ago, and thought it was lovely, but this reincarnation has elevated it to an entirely new level of beauty. As we entered the building, our first glimpse of the interior took our breath away. The light and colours work perfectly together. 

The Chapel of Saint Thérèse de Lisieux

Looking across the nave

Then we followed the crowd up the left aisle, walking beside chapel after chapel. The one above is dedicated to Saint Thérèse de Lisieux. I love the elegant simplicity of it, with is array of votive candles in front of a representation of the saint. Turning our heads toward the central portion of the church, we admired the graceful arches from floor to ceiling, as well as the many stained-glass windows. 

The South Rose window created in 1260

When we reached the transept, I zoomed into the rose window on the south side. As you can see, the colours are magnificent. This and the two other rose windows, the cathedral's greatest treasures, survived the 2019 fire mostly intact, although there was some damage. Next, I recorded the many scenes of the life of Christ on the choir screen. This frieze is known as a "jubé". Below it are gothic arches and memorial plaques of former archbishops of Paris. 

Medieval chapel

Tomb of Cardinal Louis-Antoine des Noailles

The chapels in this part of the cathedral are medieval masterpieces. Every detail has been lovingly restored. Note the soft colour palate in both of the above photos, and the perfection of the statues. Added to these elements are patterned walls. 

Another chapel

The Crown of Thorns chapel lies at the extreme east end of the cathedral. 

At the east end of the church is the ambulatory (the passageway behind the choir) where we again admired more chapels, the windows, and star-studded ceilings. The golden disk above stands in front of "the crown of thorns", a relic said to have been worn by Jesus during his crucifixion. It has been part of this church since the 13th century.

So many colours in this stained glass window!!

Another window in the ambulatory

The stained glass in the ambulatory is lovely. It is interesting to note that during plans for the restoration, French President, Emmanuel Macron, proposed removing some of the religious-themed stained glass and replacing these with a more contemporary design. Thankfully, that idea was very unpopular with the public and the French Commission on Architectural Monuments and Patrimony.

Biblical carvings on the choir enclosure

The North Rose window was first built in 1250.

Our walk through Notre-Dame next proceeded along the south side of the building, the right aisle, where the symmetry of the cathedral was obvious. For instance, there is a second set of carvings depicting Biblical scenes on the choir enclosure. In the transept, I was able to focus on a second Rose window, just as beautiful as the first. 

The Crucifixion of Saint Peter (1643)

More sculptures on the portals

Our walk through Notre-Dame de Paris was, essentially, a walk through history. It has stood here since the 12th Century, although it has undergone many alterations since then. This most recent one has given it new life. It pleased me immensely that this symbol of Paris has been reborn, and is more beautiful than ever. 

A Classical statue is positioned above Arènes de Lutece.

A trio of boys were kicking a soccer ball inside the arena.

We were not finished our long walk yet. I had read that there was an ancient Roman arena still standing in Paris, Arènes de Lutece, so we crossed to the south bank to seek it out. Constructed in the 1st century in what was known as Lutetia (the Roman name for Paris), it was an amphitheatre with a capacity for 15 000 people, who went there to watch gladiator combat. On this afternoon, only a handful of boys were using the space.

Fontaine Cuvier

The greenhouse of the tropical rainforests

Because it was close by, we decided to make one more stop before dinner. Paris' Jardins des Plantes was a mere four minute walk away. Near the entrance, we spotted Fontaine Cuvier, built as a tribute to a French naturalist and paleontologist, Georges Cuvier. Then we crossed the road and entered this botanical, ecological, and zoological park through its northwest gate. 

Path towards the greenhouse

Bob knocks on the door of the hobbit house.

This is a very large area, covering 27 hectares, and tired as we were, we saw only a small portion of it. The 1937 greenhouse which houses tropical plants was closed but we took shots of it from two angles. Another building's purpose was much less clear, but we found it charming. We thought it was a hobbit house, but I have since learned that it is a gardener's hut. 

Garden plants and 19th century building

Au Bourguignon de Marais

Before we left the garden, we had to find some fall flowers. With very low batteries on both Bob's camera and my iPhone, we managed one last shot, the one above. In the distance is the Great Gallery of Evolution, which focuses on the evolution of species and the diversity of the living world. Satisfied, we made our way to a restaurant in le Marais where we had made dinner reservations. I ordered the signature dish, Boeuf Bourguignon, and it was delectable!! Bob had a Poke Bowl, which he did not enjoy as much.

So good!

Afterwards, we trudged back to our hotel. As we had done first thing in the morning, we made our last stop at Utopie for more sweets. Having walked over 25 000 steps, we could justify this indulgence. What a day!!!