An Afternoon in Bordeaux - September 24, 2025

 

I pose in Bordeaux.

We woke up this morning to heavy rain. It would have been a miserable day to walk around Paris, but fortunately we had other plans. We had arranged for a taxi to pick us up at our hotel, and by 8:30, we were on our way to le Gare Montparnasse. About 45 minutes later, we were at the station, and not long afterwards, we boarded the high-speed train to Bordeaux. 

The Bordeaux train station

The very efficient Bordeaux tram

We had pre-booked first class tickets for this trip, so it was a very comfortable journey, so much so, that I dozed the majority of the time. After all, I was still quite jet-lagged, this being only our second full day in France. In just over two hours, we pulled into le Gare de Bordeaux Saint Jean. We dropped off our luggage at our hotel and then took the tram to the centre of the city north of us, an eleven minute commute.

La Fontaine des Trois Grâces

Here I am inside the mirror.

Bob and I had visited Bordeaux in 2014, so much of the city was familiar to us. We decided to follow the walking tour provided by an App I use when I travel, GPS My City. We began at the Place de la Bourse, where la Fontaine de les Trois Grâces stands at its centre. Installed in 1869, it contains female statues representing beauty, joy, and abundance. The grand buildings that line this square were conceived in the mid 18th century by Jacques Gabriel, who gained fame for his design of Versailles. 

That's Bob in the middle of this shot. 

The Miroir d'eau is very large

in front of this square, closer to the River Garonne is the Miroir d'eau (Water Mirror), a shallow reflecting pool, the largest in the world. Large granite slabs are covered with two centimetres of water to create this effect.  We first walked around it to the other side and then watched others as they negotiated the water. I recall enjoying watching a small dog who just loved splashing in this massive puddle. 

Restaurants in Place Saint-Pierre

A restaurant set up a patio beside the church.

From this spot, we followed our walking tour to one of the oldest parts of the city. We were simultaneously looking for a place to eat while enjoying the sights. We first stopped in Place Saint Pierre, where there were a number of restaurants but none was quite right for us. 

The façade of Église Saint-Pierre

The choir of Saint-Pierre

The old church there intrigued us, however. Some version of Église Saint-Pierre has stood here since the 6th century although the current Gothic building is nowhere near that old. Over the centuries it has been rebuilt, restructured, and restored. Interestingly. the stained-glass windows, created by Joseph Villiet in 1860, depict a white queen with two black slaves, an image from Bordeaux' past as a slave port. We would learn more about this history later in the day. 

Stained-glass windows

The organ in Église Saint-Pierre

We proceeded from here to Place du Palais, a rectangular space. At its easternmost end is the medieval Cailhau Gate. Constructed between 1493 and 1496, it was the main entrance to Bordeaux for centuries. Its Gothic and Renaissance elements include pointed turrets, intricate carvings, and a prominent niche housing a statue of King Charles VIII. It is such a beautiful sight that both Bob and I made it the subject of similar photographs 

Bob's shot

Mary's shot

In contrast, there is a modern art installation on the ground at the opposite end of the square. I have learned since then that these shell-like structures are part of a fountain that was not operating the day we visited. There were restaurants in this square as well, but again we chose to move on. 

Haussmannian architecture

Rue Saint-Jacques

We enjoyed the architecture of Bordeaux. Here are more examples of the Haussmannian style from the late 19th century we had seen the previous day in Paris. In fact, this city is second only to France's capital for listed and registered monuments. We were walking toward one of the most recognizable of these on Rue Saint-Jacques when we finally stopped for a bite to eat. 

Books and Coffee

Felling better after a little sustenance

This pedestrian walkway contains many shops and restaurants. At Books and Coffee, a charming retro place, we split a sandwich. After this light snack and a rest, I was ready to continue our exploration of this city, because before this stop, I was definitely lagging. 

La Grosse Cloche from the north

La Grosse Cloche from the south

At the end of Rue Saint-Jacques stands la Grosse-Cloche, among the oldest belfries in France. It was once part of a 13th century entrance into medieval Bordeaux, the Saint-Éloi gate. Over time, it evolved into a prison for a time, then a town hall. The bell sits in an alcove above Bordeaux' Coat of Arms. It is rung every year to signal the beginning of the grape harvest. Interestingly, there is a clock on both sides of the structure. 

Tourist train

Rue Sainte-Catherine

Nearby, we saw a tourist train, a common sight in France. We went in the same direction as that vehicle, turning right onto Rue Sainte-Catherine, a street that gives priority to pedestrians, another common practice in this country. We followed it for a short time, and then turned right a second time.

Venus of Laussel

Roman statuary and mosaic floor

We were now on Cours Pasteur where we soon spotted la Musée d'Aquitaine. It is housed in the former Faculty of Letters and Sciences, a grand edifice erected in 1880. We opted to have a look inside, a very good decision as it worked out, especially since the tickets were a mere 5 Euros. The collection here is very impressive. For example, consider the Venus of Lussel, among the first artifacts on display. This Upper Paleolithic bas-relief sculpture of a pregnant woman, found in a cave in the Dordogne region, is over 20 000 years old. I was blown away!

Looking down on the mosaic floor

Limestone statue of Jupiter

Much, much later, in 60 BCE, the Romans conquered the Celts living in this area, creating the city of Burdigala, a thriving trading port where the major export was wine. The wealth of the Romans who lived in this region is evident in the quality of the artifacts that have survived from this era. The mosaic floor is particularly fine. Sculptures of familiar Roman deities, such as Jupiter, above, show some wear but are nonetheless very notable. 

The Judgment of Paris

Hercules

More Roman mythological figures can be found in this section of the museum. After all, the Romans were here for over three centuries. While the bas-relief of the Judgment of Paris is a beautiful classical piece,  the Bronze Hercules is the highlight of the collection. It is one of very few large bronzes preserved in France.

Eleanor of Aquitaine

Copy of the effigy of Eleanor of Aquitaine

As we moved from room to room, we continued our walk through the history of Aquitaine, where we soon encountered an effigy of one of the region's most famous people. At the tender age of 13, Eleanor of Aquitaine became Queen of France alongside Louis VII, and then after divorcing him, she married Henry II of England and was the mother of Richard the Lionhearted. Carved early in the 13h century, the original of this effigy can be found in the Abbaye de Fontevrault, where she was buried. 

Reliquary casket

The Great Rose of the Church of the Carmelites

Unlike this copy, authentic medieval wonders also awaited us in this section. The 13th century reliquery casket from l"Église de Floirac is very ornate. Made of copper and enamel, it was used to store holy oils. In an alcove nearby is a gorgeous flamboyant gothic rose which, at one time, was part of the 13th century Church of the Great Carmelites. When it as discovered, it was broken in several pieces. Its reconstruction has brought back its beauty.

Samson and the Lion

Capital of an angel playing music

We were also struck by the medieval sculptures on display, representing Christian themes. Most likely, these were part of larger pieces housed in places of worship. Samson wrestling with a lion can be clearly seen in the stone relief above, while below it is a capital of an angel playing music. It dates from the 12th century.

Le Palais de l'Ombrière

Michel de Montaigne's Cenotaph

At this point, we had covered the centuries from prehistory to the Middle Ages. Next, we entered the rooms with artifacts from the Renaissance period. There were several reproductions of watercolour paintings depicting palaces in the area, such as le palais de l'Ombrière above. Nothing was more striking in this section than the cenotaph of Michel de Montaigne. A former mayor of Bordeaux and a notable philosopher during the 16th century, he is famous for popularizing the essay as a literary form.  

Part of the Equestrian Statue of King Louis XV

Map and models of slave ships

We next entered a section depicting Bordeaux in the18th century. In one room stands portions of the monumental equestrian statue of Louise XV. The first photo above is of one of four trophies that formed its base, this one a tribute to Europe which includes a horse's head, a rooster, and a helmet meant to be that of Alexander the Great. In another room, we learned that during this period, Bordeaux was France's second largest slave port, after Nantes. Some 150 000 people were moved from Africa, and then across the Atlantic to the Americas on ships originating here. 

Poster advertising an exposition

Typical shelf of a 19th century store

We continued to move forward through time, into the 19th century. During this period, Bordeaux was enjoying its golden age. It had become a global hub. A poster from 1895 advertises an exposition run by the Philomatic Society, a group of lovers of learning. A display of common goods from that period adds charm to this section of the museum. 

Statue of Leon Gambetta

Port of Bordeaux

Next, we arrived at the 20th century rooms. Understandably there were more artifacts here that anywhere else. In this section, the museum transitioned into an art gallery, with sculptures and paintings from the era. Leon Gambetta was memorialized in a statue, a replica of one that once stood in Allées de Tourny in central Bordeaux. The original was melted down during WWII. In a painting, Bordeaux' famous port was captured beautifully by cubist artist, André Lhote.

Les Colonies

More of Les Colonies

Bob, an art lover, enjoyed photographing the works here. Besides telling the story of this great city, these often celebrate locally trained talent.. Les Colonies by French/Algerian artist Frederic Marius de Buzon is an example of the latter. He was trained at the Bordeaux School of Fine Arts, but his subject matter is Algerian.   

Agriculture 

Bob leaving the museum

In Jean Despujols' frieze, Agriculture, the bounty of the Aquitaine region is celebrated using classical motifs and the Art Deco style popular between the wars of the 20th century. All in all, we were very pleased to have spent an hour or so in la Musée d'Aquitaine. On this first day of our trip in southwest France, we learned a lot about the region that was to be the focus of our trip. 

Rue Duffour Dubergier

Looking up at the tower

Afterwards, we continued our walking tour along another of Bordeaux' grand avenues, making our way to the largest church in the city. We first spotted a stately structure which stands twenty meters away from the main building. The flamboyant gothic Pey-Berland tower was a 1440 addition to the Cathédrale Saint-André. A golden statue of Our Lady of Aquitaine stands at its pinnacle.

The tower from another angle

Cathédrale Saint-André

There has been a church called Saint-André at this spot in Bordeaux since the 9th century. In the 11th and 12th centuries, it became a popular stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Campostela, thus cementing its status as the primary religious site in the city. It was here in 1137 that 13-year-old Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France. 

Statuary in the portal

Saints and Apostles depicted in 19th century stained glass windows

The original structure was Carolingian in style. In 1170, A Romanesque church replaced it, and then in the 14th and 15th centuries, the current French Gothic building was erected. A century later, Renaissance decorations were added. The current stained-glass windows date from the 1852. Like many French churches, this one has recently been restored. In short, the Cathédrale Saint-André is replete with architectural styles from the many centuries of its existence. 

The nave

The choir

We enjoyed our visit to the interior. In true gothic style, the columns here soar to the heavens. The details of the choir are lovely too, with intricate ironwork and gold touches adding to the beauty of the space. The 18th century organ casework is another magnificent feature. The pipes themselves were made even more resonant after an upgrade in the 1970s. 

The organ and steps at the rear of the church

Column support

Because of its many alterations and restorations, the Cathédrale Saint-André has a variety of elevations. For instance, there are steps at the rear of the church, and some of the columns nearby have had to be supported by new bases. 

Graceful clustered columns

Buttresses

While the clustered columns on the interior are magnificent, these are matched by the massive buttresses on the exterior.. Both features work together to support the weight of the vaulted ceiling of the cathedral. It is interesting, if not a little surprising, to see that one buttress has been cleaned recently while its mate is still yellowed with age.

Grand portal in front of the Hôtel de Ville

Le Palais Rohan

At the east end of the same square as the cathedral is the Bordeaux city hall, the Hôtel de Ville. Prior to the French Revolution, it was the archbishop's palace, le Palais Rohan. It consists of a colonnaded portal, a paved courtyard, and the three story palace itself. Since its erection in 1771, it has had many uses and occupants. Bishop Ferdinand Maximillien Mériadec de Rohan lived here first; post revolution, it housed the Gironde department prefecture; during his reign, Napoleon Bonaparte used it as an imperial palace, and later Louis XVIII made it a royal residence. Finally in 1835, it was converted into a city hall. 

Porte Dijeaux

Pedestrian walkway with Cinema Mega in the distance

After a few photos of this building (which we did not visit), we continued our walking tour, passing by Bordeaux' Porte Dijeaux, a more modern gate to the city than the ones we had seen earlier. Dating from the mid-eighteenth century, it is made of Frontenac stone. We continued along pedestrian-friendly streets where bikers were welcome but not cars. The buildings here are very grand, dating from Bordeaux's golden age in the 19th century. 

Place des Grands Hommes

Flowers and lawn in the Jardin Public

When we arrived at la Place des Grands Hommes, we were in familiar territory, having stopped at this mall-in-the-round on our first visit to the city. Looking for a new place to see in the city, we headed for the Public Garden north of us. For us, it was a pleasant break to be in this eleven hectare green space.

Pavilion of the former greenhouse

Bob posing at the centre of the pavilion

We were drawn to a pavilion in the western portion of the garden. This was once attached to a greenhouse designed by Charles Burguet, the principal architect in Bordeaux during the first half of the 19th century. As we approached this feature, we spotted a group of teen girls working on a dance routine. When they saw me taking Bob's photo, one of them offered to take one of us together. 

French girls and us

Pavilion selfie

Instead, Bob suggested the entire group join us. They happily did so, leaning into us to create the charming shot above. Then, the photographer took another, selfie-style. These girls, which I guess were between 13 and 15, were delightful. They eagerly chatted with us in English, keen to practice–or show off–their command of the language. Who says the French are unfriendly?

Ducks in the English Garden

Mauriac statue

From this spot, we entered the English Garden. In this section, there is a small stream, with geese and ducks enjoying the water. There is also a footbridge and a few small islands which are home to classical statues. We did not take photos of them, but, as we were leaving the garden, I snapped a shot of the sculpture of François Mauriac, a French author who was awarded the Nobel Prize for literature in 1952. He was a native son of Bordeaux

Looking at the Monument of the Girondins from one angle

Horses and figures at the base of the monument

We moved south from here towards the Monument des Girondins, with its towering column, classical sculptures, and aquamarine waters. It was erected in the early 19th century in memory of the Girondin deputies who were victims of the Reign of Terror. Bob and I had seen this fountain on our first visit to Bordeaux and we had fond memories of it. Good thing, since this time, part of it was behind fencing as it was undergoing a facelift. 

Place de la Comédie

Le Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux

A few minutes later, we entered another of Bordeaux' grand squares, Place de la Comédie, where we again spotted the tourist train. Among the stately buildings here are the Opéra de Bordeaux (1780) and the Grand Hotel de Bordeaux, a neo-classical building from the same period. In the southern corner of the space stands a modern sculpture, the "Sanna", an elongated head which can play tricks on the eye when examined closely.

The door to our minuscule room

We were now very close to the starting point of our walking tour. It had been a busy afternoon (15 000 steps) and we were keen to return to our hotel and check in. We were booked at the Rosa Boutique Hotel where we had dropped off our luggage earlier in the day. We chose a room at the back of the property because we thought it would be quiet. Indeed, that was the case, but in every other respect, we were disappointed. The room was so tiny that we could barely move in it and it was also much too hot. In fact, this was the worst place we stayed in during our entire vacation. We also cannot recommend the restaurant nearby where we had dinner. Our host had suggested we try another "bouillon', le Bouillon Saint-Jean Bordeaux, where the service was fast but the food was just okay. I had seared tuna, while Bob had a penne with ham. Our experience that evening led us to upgrade any later hotels where possible, and to avoid French fast food restaurants in the future.

Of course, these relatively small concerns could not take away from our appreciation of Bordeaux. It is a spectacular place! We highly recommend walking its streets to take in the beauty of this great city.