After four days of dull weather, we woke up this morning to bright sunshine and a bluebird sky. From the top floor of our little hotel, I took a photo of the rooftops of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. "Luz" means light in Spanish, and here was lots of beautiful light. I knew immediately that this was going to be a good day!
 |
| Maison Louis-XIV |
 |
| Bob at the Hôtel de Ville |
We bought mini quiches and pastries from the patisserie next door, and then enjoyed this light breakfast on a table outside before making our way on foot into the town. Five minutes later, we arrived at le Maison Louis XIV, built in 1643 by a ship owner who hosted the future Sun King a few years later on the occasion of his marriage to Infanta Maria Theresa of Spain. This union cemented the rapprochement of the two major European powers at the time. Another historic building close by is the Hôtel de Ville in front of which Bob posed for me.
 |
| Pastel umbrellas at Bar de la Marine |
 |
| Bright red umbrellas at Brasserie le Majestic |
On this glorious morning, the central plaza of Saint-Jean de Luz was lovely. It was still early so the local bars were not yet open, but their colourful umbrellas were ready to be unfurled later.. It would be lovely to sit under one of these and watch people go by.
 |
| Art show at the bandstand |
 |
Enjoying my little canelé
|
In fact, there is often a lot going on in this square. Frequently at midday, the central bandstand hosts Basque choirs, dancers, and other musical shows; on this day, there was an art show set up. We had a look and then turned onto a main street that radiates from here, where I first popped into La Toque Cuivrée to get myself a "canelé", a small caramelized pastry I had first spotted in Bordeaux. Its custardy centre is flavoured with rum and vanilla.
 |
| Basque linens for sale |
 |
| Exterior of Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste |
Rue Léon Gambetta is a pedestrian commercial area with lovely shops. The one above was selling linens, all designed in the traditional Basque style of colourful stripes. I must admit I was tempted to purchase something, but I restrained myself. Instead, we stopped at Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste. a must-see in this town.
 |
| Interior of Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste |
 |
| The altarpiece |
This church is quite plain on the outside, but very interesting on the inside. Louis XIII's architect, Louis de Milhet, designed it in 1641, but construction was very slow. It was still nowhere near finished in 1660 when the marriage of Louis XIV and Maria Theresa took place there. The completed church features a multi-tiered wooden gallery lining three sides of the interior. The gilded wood Baroque altarpiece, fashioned in 1670, is quite fine with its twisted columns and vine-leaf and acanthus motifs.
 |
| Organ and gallery at the rear of the church |
 |
| Maison de l'Infante |
After this visit, we retraced our steps, passing through Place de Louis XIV a second time, as we headed towards Saint-Jean-de-Luz's harbour. On the north embankment stands le Maison de l'Infante. Dating from the same period as le Maison de Louis XIV, it was built for a wealthy shipping family, the Haraneders. This is where the future queen stayed prior to her marriage.
 |
| Saint-Jean-de-Luz harbour |
 |
| Fishing boats |
The harbour itself is a feast for the eyes. The water, on this perfect morning, reflected the blue sky in a deeper hue. The boats were mirrored too and shimmered on the water. Between the 16th and the 19th centuries, Saint-Jean-de-Luz was a pirate's stronghold. Known as corsairs, these bandits were sanctioned by the state, encouraged to plunder ships belonging to other countries. Today, however, fishing is the major industry, where locals and tourists seek to catch tuna, anchovies and sardines.
 |
| Honouring the French Resistance |
 |
| Rue de l'Infante |
From here, we followed Rue de l'Infante towards the open sea. It came as a surprise that we were so close to the beach, but after a short walk, there it was! This expanse of sand and water is called Grand Plage (Great Beach). It is a major attraction for visitors to this town.
 |
| The jetée, wall, and beach |
 |
| The view east |
To access the beach, we walked down a stairway through a retaining wall which separates the town from the sand. On the town side, a jetée (walkway) is lined with ice cream parlours, small shops and beautiful Basque houses.
 |
| The view west |
 |
| Lifeguard station and me |
Extending for just under a kilometre from east to west, Grand Plage is sheltered by three breakwaters that have been built to protect the area from large waves and strong currents. As a result, it is a popular spot to bring families during the summer. In that season, lifeguards are on duty, but no one was in those chairs on this day.
 |
| My feet in the Bay of Biscay |
 |
| Posing |
On this fresh morning, we had the beach almost entirely to ourselves. The sand was so inviting, that I took off my shoes to feel it between my toes. Then I rolled up my pants and waited for a wave to tickle my feet. If the weather is good, I never miss an opportunity to feel the pull of ocean water. Here, it was chilly but not icy.
 |
| Bob on the beach |
 |
| Tire tracks in the sand |
Afterwards, we walked a little more on the sand which was so thick that it had been recently plowed. I have walked on many beaches in my lifetime, but none has been this luscious. You can see the high quality of the sand in the image above: no small pebbles here, not even any seashells.
 |
| Rue de la République |
 |
| Maison Exkerrenea |
Soon we made our way back into the town via another historic street, Rue de la République. It is home to more historic buildings, including the oldest one in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Maison Ezkerrenea. Dating from the 15th century, it survived a large fire that destroyed much of the town in the 16th century. Besides its age, it is notable for its mullioned windows, spiral staircase, and tower.
 |
| Restaurant on Rue de la République |
 |
| Lovely street |
Rue de la République is home to several restaurants and shops. We stopped in one of these in search of typical Basque pastries. There we discovered that Gâteau Basque comes in many flavours. I chose two different types to enjoy later, one with the traditional pastry cream, and another with a fruit filling.
 |
| Brasserie le Majestic with umbrellas up |
 |
| Walking beautiful streets |
As we made our way back to our hotel, we took in the beauty of this place. We had enjoyed Bayonne the previous day, but Saint-Jean-de-Luz is at an entire different level. Its historic buildings have been restored to pristine condition, a celebration of its Basque identity. This can be seen in the distinctive red and white half timbering in le Brasserie le Majestic.
 |
| Dassault Alpha Jet |
 |
| I pose in front of Hôtel Relais Saint-Jacques. |
We stopped briefly one more time in a square where a Dassault Alpha Jet had been stationed. There was a line-up nearby for those who wanted to sit in its cockpit. This plane, painted in the red, white, and blue colours of the French flag, is the sort used by the aerobatic demonstration team of the French Air Force. We had a good look then returned to our hotel where Bob took a last photo in Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
 |
| Église Saint-Martin |
Shortly afterwards, we were back in our car and heading out of town. About twenty minutes later, we arrived in Sare where, once we parked our car, we were greeted by a chorus of beagles. These enthusiastic dogs were in a yard just below where we were stationed. They brought a smile to my face. Then we walked a few feet to the village church, bathed in sunlight, and my smile widened. What a lovely sight!
 |
| A view towards the altar |
 |
| Font and galleries |
We had chosen to stop in Sare because it is listed as one of most beautiful villages in France. Dominating its central square, the fortified seventeenth century Église Saint-Martin is known for its three oaken galleries which display the fine craftsmanship of the Basque artisans who carved them. Also notable are the paintings which adorn the walls around the altar.
 |
| Sare graveyard |
 |
| Basque grave marker |
The church is surrounded by its cemetery. The stones here mark the graves of local residents from centuries past, as well as the more recently deceased. Most of these markers are shaped like the one above. Called Hilarri, these disk-shaped funerary steles are mounted on trapezoid bases and face the rising sun. They are adorned with symbols seen throughout Basque country.
 |
| The church tower |
 |
| Clock with inscription above it |
The church's five-storey tower, rebuilt after a fire in the early 20th century, dominates this village. At its top is a clock with an inscription above it, written in the Basque language, which translates to "Man is blessed at every hour, but the last one sends him to the grave." Interesting words.
 |
| Typical Basque architecture on a local brasserie |
 |
| The view south |
Sare is situated on a hillock not far from the Spanish border, with the Pynénées in the distance. Some time ago, it was a prime spot for smuggling. In those days, bandits crossed from the south wearing espadrilles so they could not be heard by customs officials, as they brought alcohol, cigarettes, food, animals and more from Spain to France.
 |
| Fronton Omordia |
 |
| The fronton at one end |
Here Bob and I saw our first pelota stadium, Fronton Omordia. Fronton refers to the wall at each end against which the sport is played. This was quite a large venue with stands on both sides of the arena, and a spectacular view in the distance. The sport is so popular in this part of France that a local sign advertising clothing features a pelota player.
 |
| Ez Kexa clothing sign, a Basque company |
 |
| Multi-purpose facility |
It is not the only sports facility in the village, however, since nearby, a multi-use court has been erected. In this enclosure. it is possible to play a variety of games, including soccer and basketball. Nevertheless, when we retuned to the centre of the village, we soon discovered nothing can replace pelota in Sare.
 |
| Older pelota court |
 |
| A poster of pelota being played |
An older pelota pediment stands near the church. It has been in this spot for over 200 years, although it has been restored frequently over the centuries. I think the brick fronton is a beautiful feature of this much smaller court. Nearby is a column on which is affixed a poster of the game being played. This is part of a project celebrating the centenary of the pelota league in Basque country
 |
| Plaque to Victor Ithurria |
 |
| Farm near Sare |
In this same area is a stone plaque erected in memory of Victor Ithurria, a pelota player who died in action during the second world war. The words beside his image are written in both Basque and French. All in all, we very much enjoyed our time in Sare. It is a bucolic paradise.
 |
| We arrive in Ainhoa. |
 |
| I pose beside the church |
Eleven minutes west of one beautiful village is another–Ainhoa, our next destination. Both lie in the same valley and share the same heritage. As is our usual practice, we visited its church first. Classified as a historic monument, l'Église Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption was erected in the 13th century, but remodelled in the 17th.
 |
| Church interior wth galleries |
 |
| Gilt altarpiece |
The church is typical of the Labourd fiefdom, one of seven original Basque territories in southwest France. The resemblance to Saint-Martin is obvious. Both churches contain wooden galleries, although this one has only two levels; both have five-storey towers and are fortified; both are surrounded by cemeteries. The gilt wooden altarpiece at Notre-Dame-de-l"Assomption is particularly fine.
 |
| Wheel cross |
 |
| Round steles |
The cemetery stones were now familiar to us as well, with many of them topped by circular steles. Engraved on these are symbols common in Basque graveyards. Some of these harken back to pagan rituals practiced by the Basque people before their conversion to Christianity. Others, such as crosses, are seen in all Christian cemeteries. Added to the beauty of this final resting place is its location in front of open fields with mountains in the distance.
 |
| Green decor and balconies |
 |
| A quiet street facing west |
Part of our time in Ainhoa was spent looking for a place to have lunch. As a result, we walked the length of its main street. Here we found houses decorated in red and green, typical of Basque homes. You will notice that those facing east are more decorated than the ones across the road. This is because the former position is better protected from bad weather coming from the ocean. In fact, in other Basque villages, this is the common practice.
 |
| East-facing houses |
 |
| Another view of the east-facing houses |
Ainhoa was very sleepy when we visited. We found very few open shops and only one restaurant ready to serve us . The Auberge Alzate was on the main street and advertised garden seating, but when we learned that it was closed, we settled for a table inside. We decided to share a large salad with Serrano ham and "brebis", a word I could not translate. We soon learned it was a Basque cheese. It was a lovely light meal.
 |
| Pont Noblia from the south |
 |
| The view from the bridge |
About half an hour away, another beautiful village awaited us. As we approached Bidarray, Bob spotted an old stone bridge across the Nive River, so we stopped to take photographs. Here was another lovely rural setting, one of many we enjoyed on this fine day.
 |
| Close up of the Pont Noblia |
 |
| The vine covered stone walls of the Pont Noblia |
Legend has it that this ancient bridge was built on a single night by the Laminak, a witch in Basque folklore. In fact, this structure which is called Pont Noblia (The Noble's Bridge) goes back to Roman times; for that reason, it can only be accessed on foot. It was well worth a short visit.
 |
| The Aldudes valley below Bidarray |
 |
| The hilltop village |
We followed the winding road nearby up a hill to the village of Bidarray, our next destination. What a gorgeous setting we found ourselves in! From this promontory, we had a view over rolling hills dotted with small houses and green fields. We could spot farm animals grazing in the distance.
 |
| Can you spot the sheep? |
 |
| We zoomed into this horse family. |
Its church occupies the highest point of this tiny village. This is a more modest building than the others we had visited in Basque country, but its differences made it interesting to us. Part of the reason for its unique look is that parts of the church date from the 12th century, although the bulk of the building was erected four centuries later.
 |
| Scallop shell - pilgrim's symbol |
 |
| I pose in front of Notre-Dame-de-Bidarray. |
Like many of the churches in this part of France, Église Notre-Dame-de-Bidarray is on one of the routes to Santiago de Compostela. At one time, a hospice for tired walkers stood here. A scallop shell, a common pilgrim's symbol, is part of the walkway approaching the building, indicating this church's connection to this long trek.
 |
| Interior |
 |
| 20th century stained-glass window |
Notre-Dame-de-Bidarray has a notable portal, a porch featuring columns with foliate capitals. It fronts a remarkable red sandstone bell tower. The interior boasts a vaulted ceiling, a single gallery, and neo-gothic windows in which modern stained glass windows were installed in the last half of the 20th century.
 |
| Cemetery at Bidarray |
 |
| The view |
Because of the church's lofty position, its cemetery is at a different level, a little below it. The discoidal stelae here are similar to those we had seen elsewhere on this day; they are Hilarri carved with ancient Basque symbols as well as Christian ones. As we descended to walk among the gravestones, we were treated to another breathtaking view of the Aldudes Valley.
 |
| The Barberaenea Restaurant was closed. |
 |
| A shady spot in the village |
In the mid afternoon, the village of Bidarray itself was very quiet. If not for a group of students undergoing physical education exercises on the town's pelota court, we would have had the place to ourselves. The only other sign of life was a little lizard who became a subject for Bob's camera.
 |
| Bob's lizard |
 |
| Saint-Elienne-de-Baïgorry |
We were soon back on the road travelling south to Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry, another of the beautiful villages we would visit on this day. We planned a stop here to see its 11th century church which King Sancho III of Navarre had it built in 1033, in the Roman-Byzantine style.
 |
| Side view of the church |
 |
| Round tower and square tower |
We first walked around the building looking for le Porte des Cagots, a doorway for villagers who were set apart for some reason, perhaps leprosy. At the time, these people would have lived in a ghetto, but would have been allowed to attend Mass. We could not find this separate entrance, but enjoyed seeing the church from all angles.
 |
| Basque galleries |
 |
| Three gilded altars |
The interior of the church contains elements typical of the Basque style, with three galleries, and a baroque gilded altar–actually, three gilded altars. Also of note are the painted vault, the monumental Rémy Mahler organ, and 19th century stained-glass windows.
 |
| Pelota court |
 |
| Roman Bridge |
Close to the church is the village's pelota court, Also nearby, an old Roman Bridge spans the Nive des Aldudes River, a tributary of the Nive we had first seen in Bayonne. We crossed to the other side to explore more of this village which sits very close to the border of Spain, a mere 8 kilometres away.
 |
| The Nive des Aldudes |
Many of the visitors to the Basque regions use these villages as a base for hiking the verdant valleys near the Pyrénées. From Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry's central square, we had a good view of Mont Buztanzelai, Mont Oilandoi, and the Col d'Ispéguy.
 |
| Basque houses with mountains in the background |
 |
| The view takes one's breath away. |
We did not make time for hiking, however, as we were soon back in our car for the final leg of our day's journey. I must say that it was pleasure to travel the back roads in Basque country, since they were in very good condition and provided us with beautiful scenery.
 |
| La Villa Esponda |
 |
| The view from our room |
The drive was very short, however, as we arrived at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port a mere fifteen minutes later. We had chosen La Villa Esponda in the centre of this town as our place to stay for the night. This "Furnished Tourist Accomodation" has been around since 1896, and is a popular stopover for pilgrims. The rooms are large and many of them provide kitchens or extra beds. We liked ours because it came with a beautiful view out of our window.
 |
| Ancient ramparts and dry moat |
Immediately after we checked in, we went out again, on the recommendation of our hostess who suggested we take advantage of the light before the sun set. And so, we crossed the road and followed the sidewalk that led to Mendiguren Hill, 80 metres above the town. At the top, we found remnants of the ancient ramparts of this fortified town. From here, we had a fabulous view over the rooftops below us.
 |
| I pose in front of the Citadelle. |
We soon entered the grounds of the Citadelle, originally erected here in the early 17th century, but later redesigned by Louis XIV's great military architect, Sebastian la Prestre de Vauban. During the time, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port was an important defensive stronghold between Pamplona in Spain and Bayonne. We were now at the highest point of the hill where the vista was even more spectacular.
 |
| Stone archway |
 |
| Some of the fortifications |
This ancient military base is now a school, so the buildings are closed to the general public, but the grounds are not. With its stone archway, thick walls, ditches and fortifications, this would have been a difficult fortress to penetrate.
 |
| Bob in front of a half-timbered house |
 |
| La Porte de Saint-Jacques |
From this pinnacle, we followed a path downwards to le Chemin de la Porte Saint-Jacques. This cobblestone street was particularly lovely in the evening sunshine. We passed through the gate for which the street is named and continued on our way.
 |
| Beautiful house |
Many pilgrims begin their journey to Santiago de Compostela at this gate in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. In fact, a friend of ours had done exactly that a few weeks before we arrived. As we descended along this gently sloping walkway, we spotted a young woman outfitted with a large backpack. She was clearly a hiker with a long trek ahead of her.
 |
| A beautiful setting to begin the pilgrimage |
 |
| Way marker on le Chemin de Saint-Jacques |
Le Chemin de Saint-Jacques is a pedestrian only route that is the symbolic start to the famous pilgrimage. Route markers, such as the one above, have been placed on the roadway. From here, walkers will head towards the Ports de Cize, a crossing point to the Pynénées.
 |
| La Porte Notre-Dame |
 |
| A medieval corner of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port |
We followed this route until we reached the Porte Notre-Dame at the other end. Capped by a magnificent clock tower, it is another of the original gates to the town. We were now close to la Nive de Béhérobie, another tributary of the ubiquitous Nive River in Basque country. The streets nearby have a charming medieval character.
 |
| La Nive de Béhérobie |
 |
| Pink Umbrellas |
It was near that gate where we came upon a large collection of pink umbrellas above us. This was the first of many times we would see similar displays, a tourist-friendly idea begun years ago in Grasse on the French Riviera. Many other French towns and cities have now copied this practice.
 |
| Pont Notre-Dame |
 |
| Medieval houses with wooden balconies |
Then, we passed through the gate to the cobblestoned bridge, le Pont Notre-Dame. Looking back at Porte Notre-Dame, we captured its tower again from the other side. Beside it, on the embankment, old houses with wooden balconies were reflected on the water.
 |
| River and bridge east of us |
 |
| The view west |
Afterwards, we took la Rue de l"Église to the busy Place de Charles de Gaulle a short walk away. From there, we had a perfect view of the Pont Notre-Dame from a distance. Then we crossed the street and looked downriver as the river wound its way through the town.
 |
| My dinner |
 |
| The iconic shot of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port |
It was time for dinner. We opted for Ttipia, a casual spot nearby that had a table free. Determined to eat local fare, I ordered homemade confit sausages with homemade piperade (a rustic vegetable stew made with peppers, onions and tomatoes) and fries on the side. Bob had pasta with vegetables and prawns. For dessert, I chose a crème brulée, while Bob had a chocolate concoction. We had earned a big meal, having walked over 15 000 steps during our many stops in beautiful Basque country. Then, before returning to our accommodation, we took one final photograph of the beautiful Pont Notre-Dame lit up for the night. It was a perfect ending to a terrific day of touring.
Comments
Post a Comment