Heading North - October 2, 2026

Beautiful Ax-les-Thermes

After our two night stay in Andorra, we were ready to hit the road again this morning. We enjoyed breakfast in our suite, picked up our car, and headed out of town. This time, we took the Envalira Tunnel which was a great way to bypass the many twists and turns on mountain roads. 

Inside the Envalira tunnel

Our final drive through the Pyrénées

An hour later, we arrived at Ax-les-Thermes, a mountain community known for its hot springs. We found a parking spot close to a town map, which we studied before beginning our exploration of the place. Close to us was Église Saint-Vincent, the largest church in the town, originally built in medieval times.

Église Saint-Vincent

The church interior

 It has been much altered since then, with major changes occurring in the 17th century when it was rebuilt in the Catalan-Languedocian style. The features of this style include a single wide nave, thick stone walls. barrel-vaulted ceilings, and slate roofing. 

Stone altar

Stone ambo (small pulpit)

On each side of the choir are two remarkable stone sculptures, fashioned in 1970 by local craftsman, J.C. Izard. The first of these, an altar, depicts the episode of the meal with the pilgrims of Emmaus (Luke 24, 13-31) The other, an ambo, is a striking recreation of the resurrected Christ, surrounded by soldiers and Mary-Magdalene (Matthew 28, 1-15).

Les Bains Couloubret  

Interesting architecture of the bathhouse

We moved beyond the church next, towards the main drawing card of Ax-les-Thermes, its spa, les Bains Couloubret. This attractive stone structure has been built against a forested background. Here, visitors come to seek treatment in pools set at a variety of temperatures, from chilly to hot. There are both indoor and outdoor places to enjoy the waters, and afterwards, one can have a massage or a facial, or another wellness treatment. 

Les Bains

The casino

After a relaxing session at the baths, visitors can go next door to the casino. This is the same set-up we saw in Bagnères-de-Bigorre. This leads me to believe that, in French spa towns, wellness and gambling go together, although I have no idea why this is so. 

Pedestrian street

Yellow fountain in Place Roussel

We moved south from this area towards the heart of the town. We found ourselves in a delightful town, with narrow pedestrian streets and a charming central square, Place Roussel. It was another lovely, sunny day, and Ax-les-Thermes was showing off for us. In fact, under a glorious blue sky, no building was more attractive than the Chapel of Saint-Jérome which stands close to the river that courses through Ax-les-Thermes. 

Saint-Jérome Chapel

Pink umbrella in the window

Now an exhibition hall, this small 17th century church was built for the Confraternity of the Blue Penitents, an anti-reform group of laymen who believed that France should always be a Catholic country. In their time, they paraded in blue hooded robes, hence their name. The chapel, closed on this day, contains a beautiful baroque altar.

I stand on the passerelle (footbridge).

Looking west and north

Next, we made our way to a footbridge nearby and used the old building as a backdrop for more photos. Civic pride could clearly be seen in this town. The bridge was adorned by flowers spilling out of boxes, as the waters of the Ariège river bubbled by us. The view in both directions was lovely.   

Looking east

Bob looking down over the town

A little further on, standing at the top of a stair, Bob looked back towards the town and took the photo that begins this post, as well as the one above. After that, we recrossed the bridge, stopping at la Source de l'Eau Chaude, a shallow pool full of steaming sulphurous water. I decided to take off my shoes and join the others already enjoying a footbath. That felt good, I must say.

Time to rest the feet

Nothing like a hot bath

After about a five minute soak, I put my shoes back on and we continued our walk. We followed a different route as we headed back towards our car. When we came upon an unusual house at an intersection, Bob stopped to read the sign there. This described la Rue des Moulinas, the street at the core of the thermal waters that have defined this town since Roman times. 

Signs at la Rue des Moulinas

Along la Rue des Moulinas

We followed this street and soon found ourselves back at the small plaza we had seen earlier. Both then and now, we noticed a queue outside a local bakery, Pain and Patisserie Artisanale. When the local people favour an establishment, that is a sign to shop there. So we joined the line, and eventually purchased ham and cheese sandwiches, a. blueberry square (carré ariégeois myrtille amande), and some cookies. 

Place Roussel

Lining up like the local folks do

We were now set for lunch and ready to leave the town, but before we did that, we stopped at a second bakery across the road from the parking lot. At le Fournil d'Ax, we bought more treats: a Basque cake and a Paris-Brest–a dessert made of choux pastry, praline cream, and almonds. We would have to log a lot of steps on this day to work off those calories. 

Our first photo in Tasascon-sur-Ariège

Place Félix Garrigou

And so, we left Ax-les-Thermes in a good mood, having enjoyed what this charming town had to offer. Continuing our northern journey, we followed the Ariège for about thirty minutes to Tarascon-sur-Ariège where we stopped our car near a sunlit square, Place Félix Garrigou.

Arcade

Closed bakery and statue

Here, I was immediately reminded of places we had visited in Italy. The three story homes here have façades painted in sun-bleached pastel colours, and on one side of the square, an arcade provides shelter from the sun. On another side stands a statue of a woman carrying a pitcher of water on her shoulder, a common symbol for vitality.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Daurade

Church interior

In the south corner of Place Félix Garrigou, we entered a small church. Built in the 16th century on the foundations of a structure five hundred years older, Notre-Dame-de-la-Daurade got its name from a gilded statue in its interior. Shortly after its construction, it was damaged during the Wars of Religion, then neglected for some time; later it became a site of Protestant worship, then a "Temple of Reason" during the French Revolution.

Pulpit and alcoves

Statuary and paintings

In the 18th century, the church was finally restored to its current appearance, which includes a ribbed vault with a starred ceiling. Paintings from the 18th century Toulouse school were added to the interior, as well as walnut panelling, but the older Louis XIII pews were preserved. 

More statuary

La Tour Saint-Michel

Just east of the square is la Tour Saint-Michel, dating from 1382. Once the extension of a church of the same name, over the centuries, this square tower has been a defensive post as part of the town ramparts, then a bell tower, and finally, a watchtower. 

Looking up la Tour Saint-Michel

Looking back at Place Félix Garrigou

We next returned to Place Félix Garrigou, passing through it in search of a route to another tower, the most famous landmark of the town. The entire time we were there, we never saw another soul. It felt as if we had taken a trip into the past, or that the town had gone to sleep.

Passageway

Steep street

In the north-east corner of the square, we found a passageway which led to a street on a definite incline. We followed this to the top of a hill where stands le Tour de Castella. This circular stone clock tower provides its visitors with a panoramic view over the valley below it, a reward that makes the climb worthwhile.

Looking back towards the old town

Rooftops seen on our way up

We had spotted the Castella Tower from the road when we entered the Tarascon-sur-Ariège, and although we found other historical sites in the town, this was our principal quarry. Dating from the 18th century, this attractive landmark was built from materials that were part of an earlier fortification.

My shot of the pathway and the Castella Tower

Waving back at Bob

The Tower itself and the views from it inspired Bob and me to take lots of photos. I got there first and stopped to take it all in. As I look at these photos, I am struck again about the beautiful weather we enjoyed on this and many other days in southern France. Look at that cloudless blue sky!

The perspective

Two clocks!!

Recently renovated with new dials, the two clocks (which chime on the hour) here have a whimsical charm to them. It is hard to believe that they are two centuries old, as is the bell on the top. Of course, we had no idea there were two of them until we were close to the structure. Also charming is the conical roof and its miniature copy above it. 

River, town, and hill

Another view of the river

From this spot, we looked down upon to the lower part of Tarascon-sur-Ariège, intersected by the river itself. In fact, two rivers converge here: the Vicdessos and the Ariège. They are the lifeblood of this community. 

La Tour Saint-Michel

Cross and town below

Turning our eyes and our cameras in the direction from which we had come, we first spotted la Tour Saint-Michel through a canopy of trees, beside the roof of Notre-Dame-de-la-Daurade. In the opposite direction, behind the tower, a metal cross of the crucified Christ looks down over the rooftops below. As I have already said, this vista was well worth the effort to get to this spot. Also, a pair of benches invite visitors to sit and rest a while.

Benches behind the clock tower

Au revoir, Tour de Castella

That option was not for us, however. It was mid-afternoon by now, time to continue our drive north. After thirty-five minutes on the road, we arrived in Pamiers, the largest community in the Ariège department in the Occitanie region. We were now well away from the Pyrénées, and ready to explore another pretty French town 

La Tour de la Monnaie

Cathédrale Saint-Antonin

Among Pamiers' claims to fame are its three bell towers, so we made these the focus of our visit. The first was la Tour de la Monnaie, a remnant of a building where, according to oral tradition, Gaston Phoebus established a mint in 1419. Over the centuries, the tower had undergone some modifications and renovations. I particularly like the crenelations at its top.

Side view of Cathédrale Saint-Antonin

A view of the bell tower

Not far from this, the Cathédrale Saint-Antonin dominates the town. Constructed in the Southern French Gothic style out of Toulouse brick, it lacks the graceful features–such as flying buttresses or rose windows–of well-known gothic churches  Instead, it appears to be an impenetrable fortress with a superb bell-tower. Unfortunately for us, the cathedral was closed when we were there, so we were not able to look inside. 

Porte de Nerviau

The other side of the Porte de Nerviau

Also made of pink brick is the nearby Porte de Nerviau, a medieval gate once part of the town's fortified enclosure. We passed through this lovely portal, and photographed it from both sides. Dating from the 14th century, it stands as a reminder of the strategic importance of Pamiers at that time. 

Brick art

Le Carmel

Clearly, pink brick is a theme in Pamiers, and we would see lots more of it during this part of our road trip. On a wall close to the ancient gate, Bob noticed a creative use of this terracotta construction material. It was also used but more sparingly in the next place we stopped at, le Carmel.

Crucifix in the courtyard

One of the galleries in the convent

A former convent for an order of Carmelites established in Pamiers in the mid-17th century, it is still easy to imagine those cloistered nuns walking le Carmel's corridors in peace and serenity, as they did for more than three hundred years. After the order died out in 2008, this lovely building was taken over by the city and transformed into a cultural centre.

Winged creature

Massive heart

When we were there, its many rooms were used as mini-galleries displaying modern art, a temporary exhibition. We moved from space to space, sometimes puzzling over the works we encountered, but always admiring the creativity in front of us. However, we could have used a guide to help us interpret what we saw. 

Crocheted creature

Variety in one of the rooms

As you see, the exhibition we encountered featured many forms of artistic expression, making it a true multi media experience. I have tried to discover who these many artists are, but with no success. Clearly, they are looking to convey something important to them no matter what material they use.

These are not people

Painting

Just when I thought I had seen everything in le Carmel, I stepped out of the back door of the building into the former convent's yard. This was a charming area, used as both a herb garden (or perhaps a former herb garden, since it appeared somewhat neglected) and a sculpture garden. 

The herb garden

Like everything else I saw at le Carmel, this space came as a delightful surprise. The garden, in early October, still had a few plants poking their way through the soil. A large shade tree nearby was framed by carefully placed stones while a faceless nude sculpture added variety to the space. 

Tree

Metal sculpture

Around a corner, Bob came upon the most unexpected item of all: a car covered in graffiti. All around it, the grasses had grown wild. How did it get there? And was it part of the temporary modern art on display inside le Carmel or was it a permanent fixture? 

Car - going nowhere

I pose in the yard.

By this time, it was late afternoon, so we returned to our car in order to finish our day's journey. We were heading due north to Toulouse for the night, an hour away. We were aware than October 2 had been declared a national day of protest by French unions, but we saw no evidence of any disruptions on this day until we approached the centre of Toulouse where we drove through a large contingent of police in full riot gear leaving the area. That was a little unsettling, but it appears our timing was good, since by the time we had parked our car under la Place du Capitole, all protesters and police had disappeared. 

Place du Capitole in the evening

Diners at Place du Capitole

We checked into the Plaza Hotel Capitole Toulouse where we would spend the next three nights. Then we stepped outside again to see a little of the city and to find a place to enjoy dinner. We had chosen a good spot to stay, because we were right beside a bustling square full of restaurants. It was a very inviting spot!

The view across the Garonne at twilight

Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques and Chapelle La Grave 

As the sky darkened, we made our way to the right bank of the Garonne, the river that intersects Toulouse. I must say, I did not expect the gorgeous scene that met us. Across from us, the Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques was illuminated and reflected on the mirror-like surface of the river. This historical building dates from the 12th century.  Next to it, the dome of la Chapelle La Grave was also lit up.

Pont-Neuf

Inside La Brasserie des Beaux-Arts

We followed the road beside the Garonne a short distance, then stopped again to photograph Pont-Neuf, a bridge erected in 1632. It too was especially lovely at twilight. We had asked for a restaurant recommendation at our hotel, and we had now arrived at La Brasserie des Beaux-Arts where fish is the specialty. This old-fashioned establishment beside the river was a great choice, and we were quite hungry; I enjoyed a beet salad, while Bob opted for pumpkin soup; then we both had fish as our main course.

The view at night

"Women are not fragile; their rights are."

After this satisfying meal, we retraced our steps, stopping again to capture Hôtel-Dieu Saint-Jacques under a night sky. The colours had changed but the sight was just as beautiful as it was earlier. A few minutes later, back at la Place du Capitole, we realized that something was going on. We first thought that this was a continuation of the day of protest but we soon discovered that a feminist rally was taking place, la Nuit des Relais. This event, which took place simultaneously in Paris, Bordeaux and Toulouse on this evening, was a festive and charitable race organized by the Women's Foundation. We watched their little parade and visited a few of their kiosks, before taking a final photo in front of our hotel.

The parade

I pose in front of our perfectly located hotel.

In our first few hours in Toulouse, we had been very impressed. This is one of France's most vibrant cities and we had only seen a small sliver of it so far. We had logged only 7500 steps on this day, but we would more than make up for that on the next.