A Day Trip - October 4, 2025

A lady and her gentleman in Valence-sur-Baïse

Toulouse is the capital of Occitanie, the large administrative region in the south of France which we had been exploring since we left Andorra. This part of the country is full of charming towns, large and small, and, try as we might, we would not be able to see them all. Still, we did our best on this day to visit as many as possible to the west of us.

Basilique Cathédrale Sainte-Marie d'Auch

Busy folks at the market

After a light breakfast in our room, we headed out of town and travelled for over an hour until we reached Auch. It was a Saturday morning, so we were not surprised to discover that it was market day in this town of about 25 000. And so, we joined the people shopping in front of the town's cathedral. 

Cookies for sale

Leo sells cheese from his truck.

It is no wonder that the French love their street markets. They are places to gather, and to buy from local merchants who grow or make their products. This is farm to table at its very best. We decided to pick up some cookies at La Biscuiterie des Mousquetaires. Here was the first clue that we were in Musketeer country. (I thought they were fictional, but I guess not...)

Trumeau in the west front

East side of the cathedral

After wandering among the stalls, we made our way to the cathedral, only to find it closed, so we had to settle for photos of the exterior. In the centre of the main entrance, Bob focused on a very ornate trumeau, the central pillar holding up the tympanum. It is clearly flamboyant gothic in style. Then we walked beside the church to the back of it where we arrived at la Tour d'Armagnac. 

La Tour d'Armagnac

This is a 14th century fortified medieval tower once used as a prison. It stands near the top of l'Escalier Monumental, a 234 step flight of stairs that connects the upper town (where we were) with the new town below us. We descended to the first landing and found ourselves at an art installation, The Observatory of Time, created in 1992. It consists of raised text, a biblical evocation of the Flood. It harkens back to a devastating flood in Auch in 1977.

The Observatory of Time by Jaume Plensa

D'Artagnan statue

On a second landing stands a monument to d'Artagnan. He really existed, but not quite as he has been portrayed in books and films. He is based on Charles de Batz de Castlemore d'Artagnan, a captain of Louis XIV's Musketeers who would be better described as a brutal soldier than a swashbuckling hero. 

Pointing and shooting

Fountain in l'Escalier Monumental

At this point, a group of girls approached me, asking me to take their photo, which I was happy to do. I was surprised when one of them handed me a real camera, not a phone. She must be an old soul. At this point, we were at the halfway mark of the staircase, so we turned around and retraced our steps, climbing back up to the old town. 

Colourful bit of the Bayeux tapestry

More of the Bayeux tapestry

We followed a narrow street as we made our way back to our car in a roundabout manner. A few sights caught our eye. The first of these were two representations of portions of the Bayeux Tapestry affixed to a wall above an array of plants. What an unusual and interesting idea this was.

Metal cross

Former convent of the Carmelites

A little further along, we stopped in front of a stylized cross near the former Couvent des Carmélites which now serves as the town's public library. As we approached the square, we spotted a half-timbered building, beautifully preserved. This is Maison Fedel, a fifteenth century townhouse. 

Maison Fedel

Fountain in Auch

From this perspective, we looked back towards the cathedral from a new angle. Near us, a small group had put up banners protesting labour rights and the misuse of funds in the public service. These people were not at all disruptive and I admire their commitment to their cause.

"Health is not merchandise"

I love the white sign's message: "Make tomorrows sing."

Thus concluded our visit to Auch, and twenty minutes later, we arrived in the first of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" that we would visit on this day, Lavardens. With a population of about 350 people, this is a tiny place but it is historically significant nevertheless. 

Part of the fortified castle

Side view of the fortified castle

This village is a medieval "castelnau", which means it was built around a fortified castle.The structure above appears to be in excellent condition but I have learned that it was recently restored, after years of neglect. It has a very interesting history. 

More of the fortifications

A little restaurant

The counts of Armagnac were the first to live here, but their home was destroyed by the king's army in 1496. In 1620, Antoine de Roquelaure was given the ruined castle by his close friend, King Henri IV. He arranged to have the fortress rebuilt, but he died five years later, and the work was never completed. From that time forward, it was neglected until 1979 when Herbert Mothe created a preservation association, through which he raised money for the castle's restoration, which is an ongoing project. 

A more modest–but still lovely–building 

A quiet walk

Frequently, there are art exhibitions in this village that is perfect for tourists. We loved that Lavardens' other buildings share the same golden stone colour as its major attraction. In the height of summer, there would have been more people here, but since it was early October, it appeared we had the place to ourselves. In fact, almost everything was closed, the church included. 

I stand in front of the closed church with its beautiful Tympanum above me.

Baptismal font

As we walked away from it, we encountered a gentleman heading our way. He had keys in his hand, and told us that he was the caretaker of Église Saint-Michel, and was on his way to open it up. He then offered to give us a private tour. Serendipity. 

The church interior

Jean-Paul suggested I take a photo here.

Jean-Louis, our personal guide, emanated pride in his tiny village and its church. He led me to each feature and described its history. I wish I could remember the details of our personal tour, but, alas, I have forgotten them. I recall that the lovely baptismal font dates from the late 15th century restoration of the building.

Chandelier and stained-glass window

Another stained-glass window

I also remember that the stained-glass windows are relatively new, installed in the late 19th or early 20th century. Jean-Louis made suggestions as to where I should stand to take photos of them in order to make the most of their colours. They are quite lovely, depicting biblical scenes clearly. 

Stonework

Jean-Louis et moi

After a thorough exploration at this lovely church, Jean-Louis and I posed together in front of it, this time with the door open behind us. Afterwards, he pointed out the stonework above us, evidence of the early Gothic design of Église Saint-Michel. 

Jean-Louis' home

Ancient house 

Then, Jean-Louis offered to show us where he lived, a short walk away. His is one of the oldest homes in the village. While its stone façade seems rather ordinary, the back of the building is remarkable. The thick stone walls, small windows, and tower reveal its age and former purpose. It was once part of the town's defences. Jean-Louis was certainly proud of this fact.

Following a narrow path

Old door

Meeting Jean-Louis certainly made our visit to Lavardens memorable. He proved false the claim that the French are unfriendly. We thanked him , then followed the path behind his home, taking a few more photos of this beautiful village before we left it behind. 

The other side of the castle

Pretty house with plants and blue shutters in Lavardens

Twenty minutes later, we arrived in another small village, Valence-sur-Baïse. Like many other communities in this part of France, it is a bastide, a fortified town laid out in a definite.geometric pattern. It is home to just over 1 000 people. 

Église Saint Jean-Baptiste de Valence-sur-Baïse

The altar backed by a relief sculpture

We found our way to the central square and parked the car. This plaza is dominated by a church at its southern end, l'Église Saint Jean-Baptiste de Valence-sur-Baïse which was erected in the 16th century, but has been greatly changed since then. At one time, it had only one tower, but a second one was added at some point creating the symmetrical look that can be seen today. Inside, we were impressed by the unusual ornate relief sculpture behind the altar.

Le Massalet

Well and pink bicycle

It was close to 1:00 pm when we arrived in the town, and we were hungry. Thankfully, we found an open restaurant, le Massalet, located in the arcaded main square, a feature common in bastide towns. We shared a salad and dessert, and enjoyed both. Afterwards, we stopped at one of three wells in the square, the one decorated with a pink bicycle and hanging flower pots.

Hotel de ville

By the riverside

After our meal, we explored a little more of Valence-sur-Baïse. We found a couple of face-in-hole boards and briefly adopted new identities, as a lady and her gentleman. We combined two shots to create the photo that begins this post. Then, we drove to the shore of the Baïse, the only navigable river in the Gers region, and saw a very different attraction in this town.

The church at Abbaye de Flaran

Bob enters the site.

We were keen to visit l'Abbaye de Flaran, a short drive away. Founded in 1151, this Cistercian Abbey was one of 343 similar monasteries established during the 12th and 13th centuries by this order. They followed the simplicity and purity of the rules of Saint Benedict, living off the land around them.

Statues on display

Stone reliefs

Upon entering the site, we passed a display of Romanesque remnants of the abbey. Among these were stone sculptures and reliefs like those above. Then, we followed a numbered path that led us first to the cloister, one of the best-preserved in southern France. 

The cloister

Brick column

This is a modest cloister when compared to others we have seen but it is older than most. Constructed in the 14th century, it has four galleries of various styles. Some of the columns here are solidly made of brick, while others consist of narrow double cylinders, with capitals at the top.

Looking in one direction

Another perspective

The variety of the cloister can be seen in the photos above. In the first one, a covered walkway occupies the upper left side, while, on the right, there is only one level. In the second, one can see the contrast between the plain square columns on the right and the graceful archways on the left.  

Medieval floor tiles

Animal capital

We noticed some interesting details during our tour of Abbaye de Flaran. Bob spotted some medieval floor tiles decorated with stars, geometric designs, and fleurs de lys. Dating from no later than the 14h century, they are in excellent condition. In another location, he focused on an unusual capital that depicts a pig or a cow. 

The kitchen

The larger of two hearths in the kitchen

The first of several rooms that can be accessed from the cloister is the kitchen, which provides visitors a window into the daily life of the Cistercian monks. Here are an ancient sink, two hearths, and a serving hatch to the attached refectory where meals were enjoyed by the community. 

The central part of the nave 

One of the three sections of the nave

At the south edge of the cloister is an entrance to the Romanesque church. Little changed since it was finished in the 13th century, it has beautiful lines, but very little decor. The monks would have come here seven times each day to complete their offices of prayer. 

Simple decoration on a capital

Archways and windows

The simplicity of monastic life is reflected in the details we noticed in the church. Among these were the capitals with a very basic design, and windows without stained glass. Stone is the only building material here, creating a feeling of austerity in the church.  

Mason's mark

The stairway out of the church

It was interesting to see a mason's mark chipped into the stone. These artisans wanted to be remembered for their efforts, but were usually illiterate and so were unable to sign their names. We exited the church by climbing a staircase to the second floor of the abbey. 

The Simonow Collection

Can you see Bob?

Once the site of the monk's sleeping quarters, this floor has been transformed into an art gallery, a pleasant surprise for us. Among the artists with works on display here are Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso and Braque. In one of the rooms, we discovered a children's play area. 

I just wore the head covering.

Monk Bob

So, we each got in touch with our inner child, and played dress-up. Clearly, some of these costumes were designed for adults, as my husband is over six feet tall and found a monk's robe that fit him, although it was a little short. This was a fun interlude for us.

Looking down at the well in the centre of the cloister

I was there.

At the end of the hallway, we found a door to the upper area facing the cloister. We walked the entire length of this covered walkway, just as the Cistercians would have done during moments of reflection. As we did so, we noticed the darkening sky.  

Cypress trees and fountain

The abbey building as seen from the garden

With this in mind, I decided to find my way to the abbey garden before the rain began. As it worked out, I only had enough time to snap a photo of some cypress trees and the central fountain. Turning around, I looked back at the abbey and photographed it from the rear. Then the skies opened.

The Chapter Room is behind these arches.

Marble columns

Back inside, we returned to the cloister area since we had only seen a small part of it earlier. We had yet to see the Chapter Room, an architectural gem from the 12th century. Here the columns are made of coloured marble. They fan out at ceiling level, creating graceful lines overhead.

Sean Connery was here.

Abbaye de Flaran from a distance

Around a corner from there, I stopped in front of a large poster of the movie, The Name of the Rose. Clearly, parts of it were filmed in this very spot. Our visit to the Abbaye de Flaran ended with this commercial advertisement. We exited into the rain and returned to our car, taking a final photo of the property from a distance. 

Four Musketeers

The interior of Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre

A mere fifteen minutes later, we arrived in the town of Condom. It was pouring rain when we were there, so we decided that a walking tour of the medieval section was not in the cards; instead, we would only visit the church, a major attraction. Before entering it, I snapped the above photo of statues of four musketeers touching swords outside la Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre. Since there was a wedding going on (as indicated by the vintage car parked outside the ornate doorway), I took a single shot of the interior and returned to the car.  

Vintage get-away car in front of the Gothic doorway

The fortifications and dry moat in Larressingle 

In the ten minutes it took us to drive to Larressingle, the rain abated. We had arrived at yet another "Plus Beau Village" with a medieval past. Nicknamed "The Little Carcassonne du Gers", it is the smallest fortified village in France. During its heyday, Larressingle had a population of 300, but today, there are only seven people living here.

The walls of the village

Bob at an entrance (or exit) gate

After the French Revolution, Larressingle was abandoned for close to 150 years, but in 1920, Edouard Mortier, the last of the Dukes of Treviso, made it his mission to save the village. His first task was the restoration of its 12th century Romanesque church, Église Saint-Sigismond, built before the fortifications were erected. These fortifications, once the bishop's palace, are privately owned and inaccessible, but there are plans to repair the roof and open them to the public.

Église Saint-Sigismond

Interior of the Saint-Sigismond

As a result, we spent most of our time inside the walls where every building adds to the village's charm. On this overcast afternoon, we saw few other people, but we enjoyed the atmosphere of the place. During the high season, we might have taken a tour or learned about the art of war since there are many such activities during the summer months, but all was quiet in early October.

Medieval houses inside the walls

A row of stone houses

The residences here were built into the walls of the fortifications,; today, many of them are commercial enterprises. We found two open. The first of these was a book store, La Librairie, with two floors of items for sale. The second shop, Boutique Dame Inagonde, contained an eclectic assortment of souvenirs. I picked up a gift for my daughter there. 

Inside the bookstore

Boutique Dame Inegonde

Although we visited it during the off-season, we enjoyed stepping back in time in Larressingle. Our busy day of touring was not yet over, however, as we had one more stop to make on our return to Toulouse. Another member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France awaited us.

Tour Porte

Beautiful houses

Sarrant combines elements of Valance-sur-Baïse and Larressingle. Following a bastide plan like the former, it has a medieval character like the latter. This was immediately evident as we passed through Tour Porte, a fortified tower built during the middle ages as a gateway to the village. It still retains its portcullis.

More historic houses

The portcullis 

Once inside, we enjoyed seeing half-timbered houses, many with brightly coloured shutters (and some brightly coloured buildings too). Unlike other bastide towns, Sarrant is circular in shape, with its church standing at the centre. Unfortunately its doors were shut by the time we got there–in fact, the entire town seemed closed–so we merely had a short walk around the village and then left. 

The church. and circular road

More pretty shutters

Our visit was short, but worthwhile. We had had quite a long day and were eager to get back to Toulouse before nightfall. Luckily, we managed that, but barely. Once we had parked the car (in a different lot this time since the closer one was closed), and walked to our hotel, the sun had set. 

The Tikka Masala at night

Having driven off and on all day, and walking 10 000 steps, we were tired, so we chose to have dinner close to our hotel, just as we had done the night before. In fact, the place we found was directly across the road from the spot where we had eaten the previous evening. For the first time on this trip, we eschewed French cuisine, opting instead for Indian food at the Masala Palace. We were welcomed with warmth and a free cocktail. Then Bob ordered his favourite, Chicken Korma, while I enjoyed Tikka Masala, the signature dish. This was a satisfying end to another busy day.